Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor, gives advice about how to prevent and control excess moisture in an RV, as well as ways to prevent odors associated with excess moisture.

Gary Bunzer, the RV Doctor, answers a question from an RVtravel.com webcast viewer about the best way to clean the fiberglass roof of a motorhome.

In an earlier post we wrote on the subject of flare fittings on copper gas lines. An alert reader responded to our post, concerned that RVers should be aware that only certain types of copper tuning are safe for use in RVs. While our intent was not to dig into the matter of running new lines, the point is well taken. Here’s the nitty gritty:

There are basically three types of copper pipe or tubing. The “cheap” stuff is type “M” and is a very thin walled creature. It is not safe, nor legal, for use in an RV. Thicker walled type “L” is safe and OK, as is its thicker walled cousin, type “K”. Not every hardware store will carry tubing that’s safe for an RV installation, but we’ve found that some Lowes stores carry type L in coils. Rigid copper tube, if used in an RV, is susceptible to problems brought on by vibration. We don’t recommend anything but flexible copper tubing.

If you have long runs to make, many RVers recommend you use black pipe for gas, and tapping off the black pipe with short runs of copper tubing to the “end user” appliance. This is particularly true if you need to make a run on the outside of the rig where the pipe may be subject to flying debris and other road hazards. Yes, some folks do report that their manufacturer has used copper outside the rig, protected with a loom jacket. Still, it seems a bit on the risky side to us.

A drawback in some areas is that you may find it difficult to purchase black pipe. Some localities won’t sell black pipe to someone other than a licensed contractor. We’ve never had the problem ourselves, but have heard of it. If that’s the case, you may wind up going to another area to get the pipe, or else break down and hire that part of the job done.

Regardless of your choice of pipe, once the installation is complete, ALWAYS check your work for leaks using the appropriate leak detector solution (soapy water, heavy on the soap) or a leak detecting “sniffer” device. If you choose the soapy water method using a spray bottle, set the nozzle for a fine, pinpoint spray, not a “mist,” as you may not get enough of the solution on the fittings to spot a leak. And the usual disclaimer: Unless you’re attempting to try out for the Darwin Awards, DON’T use a match to check for a gas leak.

Finally, not that you’d ever choose to do it, but just in case: Never run natural gas through a standard copper pipe, not even type K or type L. Natural gas will corrode the pipe and bring you leaks.